Surf Fridays!

My lovable and super cool cousin, Lesley Bruening Christianson, shot me an e-mail recently. She thought I might want to know about a long-time friend of hers, Perry Samios, who is making incredibly innovative board bags. She connected me with Perry so I could ask him a few questions but first, here's a little background from Les...

Perry and I met in Santa Cruz in the late 90's. I actually used to work for him at his company, P-CO Productions. We became super good friends. It was always fun to hang out at Perry's cuz he always had the sickest pads.

My favorite was his oceanfront house with the shingles on East Cliff Dr. in Santa Cruz, where everyone would just pull up on their cruisers, and surf directly across the street. We would do lots of fondue parties and pumpkin bowling tourneys after Halloween. Perry is also one of the funniest people I know. He has that raw, sarcastic kind of humor that makes him fun to be around.

We went on a surf trip one year with a few friends to Costa Rica. Spent the majority of time in Pavones (near the Panama border). Pavones is one of Costa Rica's most famous surf breaks offering one of the world's longest lefts, which on a good day, can connect for 2 - 3 minute rides.

Also met up a few times in Maui. Perry is a great surfer. He now has a beautiful little girl named Naya, who I'm sure will grow up with the same love for the ocean, just like her daddy.


Cool, thanks Les! Now, here are a few questions that Perry was kind enough to answer about Soma AirBag Designs and more...

Can you tell me what encouraged you to start this company? It must have been some bad experiences traveling with your board(s). So many people can relate!

Oh yeh! I know that those whom have traveled with their board have their frustrating stories. The first seed of this idea came about in the late 80’s (when glass-on fins were pretty much standard), when I did a South Pacific trip for 6 months and found this inflatable fin block. Produced very cheaply with low end plastic material but insane general concept. It just grew from there.

How did the technology part of these bags come about?

R+D, testing, 25 prototypes, material experimentation, coating experimentation, working with one of the leading factories in the world that does laser heat welding, trial & error & modifications.

I read that the biggest bag will hold a 7'6. Are there plans to make bags for longer boards?

Long board models will be available this Fall along along with KiteSurf bags. Keep your eye on our future line-ups as our expanded line will release a lot of super innovative mixed-medium bags and options. That’s all that I can say for now...but people will be even more stoked. (Note that the online shop has a scroll feature drop-down box offering their current 3 sizes).

Do you know if anyone on the ASP world tour is using the boards?

Not that I’ve heard of yet. We just released our first production run. But Satoshi Sekino (famous Japanese pro surfer) is in discussions with us becoming our Japanese distributor along with his brother. Most existing foam bags are all currently produced in the same handful of factories with same attributes...just different labels and colors. Their marketing is more image-focused (produced by riders) than actual innovation, engineering & foresight. Our angle is really going to be technical with proof in the pudding. That is not saying that we will not be backing pro guys...we’d be stoked but that would be gravy - not the meat. I must be hungry with all of these food references.



Your video was fun to watch - is that you in the video?

Nah, I’m not into being the face guy. I just want to design and make cool, innovative and protective surf stuff. That is Dave from Stretch Surfboards…the coolest cat around. He is such a mellow guy that it is funny hearing people’s responses to him being crazy or aggro. See what a few beers does to ya!

I’ll leak a bit of our future video demo to ya here: It involves 2-story drops on the boards tip and tail along with a little game of hockey...except the puck is a Soma + board and the players are two 250cc motocross dirt bikes. It will be pretty entertaining along with speaking 1000+ words. I’ll be in the blue/white helmet. There may be injuries so be sure to check it out.


The shop finder is under construction - can you give me a short list for some stores that are currently selling the bags?

So we produced our first production run and sold out within two weeks with direct buyers solely by going viral along with help of industry friends (Thanks Daily Stoke, SwellInfo, Surfline, TransWorld Surf, Futures Fins, iJustSurf along with a handful of others) before even being able to fill any dealer orders. New stock will be available May 15th.

Our reps are in a holding pattern until that time (Kass=Hawaii, Tyler=FL, Dan=East Coast, Jeff=Texas, Igor= Eastern Canada, Shylo=Northern Cal, Mike=S. East Coast) but we should have dealers close to most people by the end of summer. Until then interested peeps can order directly on our site. We have been contacted and in discussions with International Distributors from Japan, UK & parts of northern EU, France, Spain, South Africa and Australia thus far.

You guys are currently sold out until May! Is demand greater than supply?

For the moment. We were being a little too sensitive to the current state of the economy and ensuring that we stay lean during these times. May restock will be good.

Have you personally taken your boards in the airbags on a surf trip or two? If so, were you stoked?

Yes, very stoked for the obvious reasons. PROTECTION and portability. This has been our true hands-on testing in the R+D. Long flights + hot weather + a lot of dragging it around = Real Life Use.

Is Soma an acronym for something?

Soma is a place between Reality and a Dream...much of where I live for the better or worse.

What is your favorite place to surf (if it is not a secret)?

I own some property in a type of place I’ve always dreamed of since a kiddy. (See pics).



What is your favorite board to surf these days?

STRETCH Quads!

What is the last concert you went to?

Pennywise & Reverend Horton Heat.

What was my little cousin like to work with?

Oh shit, you’re going there! Lesley is nothing short of a comical reality TV show. Traveled to Costa Rica with her and her presence was the fire of much fun. She moved to Hawaii while I was already living there & rooted herself in a holey tent on the N. Shore of Maui with her husband living off of those pre-baked chickens from Safeway. This is not to mention the time they almost killed us when she picked us up from Kahului airport off their rockers...I saw the end of my life around every corner, cliff and cane field. What’s not to love about that chick!

Love it! Thanks Perry - anything you want to add?

Our stoke comes from hearing other peoples stoke. That is our goal.

The universe is cool

When we got the last Surfrider Foundation mag in the mail, I immediately thought, "How beautiful is this cover?!" When Jay came home, I had my 'Maui Days' original framed and ready to ship to Corduroy. I held the mag next to my print and said, "Jay, see this Surfrider cover? It reminds me of 'Maui Days' and this is kind of how my brain sees things when I paint."

Later, I ripped off the cover of the mag and hung it in my studio for inspiration. Just a few weeks after that, I read on Ryan Tatar's blog that he was the photographer who shot it. That's just more proof that the universe is infinitely cool.

Surf Fridays!

Dolphins checkin' out the lineup, Manhattan Beach
Photos by Jason Weber

Happy Surf Fridays! Justin Furniss sent these photos to me last week. A buddy of his, Jason Weber, took them while surfing in Manhattan Beach. They made my day and thought they'd make you feel good, too. Here's what Jason said about it...

"We've all seen dolphins in the lineup before. But this was different. It was like the dolphins wanted to hang out with us. They had been flying down the lineup, blasting out the back of the set waves. When they got to us they stopped and started to play right in front of us.

The picture of the dolphin standing up and looking at my buddy is the coolest. The dolphin did this like 3 times. The funny thing is, my friend's nickname is the "manatee". Are you kidding me!! Of course the dolphin is going to stop, look, double take, and wonder what the hell is this guy--docile sea mammal or surfer?!!?"

Interview Wednesdays: Mick Sowry

For many of you, Mick Sowry needs no introduction. He is a friend to a lot of us, even if we've only met him through his Safe to Sea blog. No doubt you already know that his film, Musica Surfica, won Best Feature at the New York Surf Film Festival last Fall.

After thoroughly loving the film Saturday night at the Ocean Film Festival in SF, Jay and I had a few questions. Thank you for taking the time to answer them, Mick.

400+ audience on Saturday night in San Francisco

Musica Surfica

As the writer and director of Musica Surfica, did you actually come up with the idea of the finless surfing and music collaboration, 'Musica Surfica' or was that idea already planted between Australian Chamber Orchestra's leader, Richard Tognetti and surf legend, Derek Hynd?

If the idea had already been planted, how did you become involved from the very beginning and what drew you to this story?

The idea began in Richard and Derek's friendship, which in turn began 10 odd years ago when Derek was still with Rip Curl. Way back then they tried to do something together, with mixed results - as the surf community was perhaps not ready for it. But it bubbled away and, at the behest of one of the ACO board members, they kept the ideas generating and eventually Derek came up with the term 'Musica Surfica'. (A nod to an Australian classical concert series called Musica Viva).

Derek Hynd

Independently, I'd begun research filming and interviews on a surf related project of mine. I'd been aware of Richard T. for many years and took a punt, contacted him explaining my story. I asked if he'd be interested in doing the sound design, as I wanted to break the mould in that area and his depth of knowledge, and staggering talent, fit the bill. That he agreed floored me, but I wasn't to argue.

That began a sporadic email ping-pong that ended in a phone call asking me to come along to a concert, check it out and meet afterward.

This was our first meeting and there, walking through the streets of Melbourne, he asked if I'd like to come to King Island with Derek and a bunch of very good surfers, and film them attempting a week of finless exploration. He told me it was called Musica Surfica, they were going to play a bit as well, but didn't know where, it was all very disorganised - but for me the opportunity was too good to miss, though I still didn't quite get it.

I asked why, and he said he wanted to be able to play a concert that had the finless surfing filmed on the island, cut to a set of classical pieces, and then in concert played live to exactly the same music. Essentially live music to a surfing backdrop, but with the edit and the playing working together precisely.

I too asked 'why finless surfing', and that goes back to the relationship between Derek and Richard.

Derek had been surfing finless for about a year or so, his exploration with it beginning when attempting to teach a friend to surf, and wanting to engage his empathetic gear to understand what it was like to learn again. Something got his attention and he began riding the shore breaks of Sydney, persistence and talent paying off as he began to get very good.

Richard picked it up too, was gaining in proficiency, and together they felt they might be on to something.

l to r: Jed Done, Richard Tognetti, Mick Sowry

Classical music was naturally part of the mix as that is what Richard is, a classical musician... a great one, and one who is dedicated to getting it seen as something more than only for concert hall audiences.

The connection Richard made was that perhaps by drawing audiences in to see surfing in a classical setting, these atypical concertgoers might become inspired to engage with classical music on a more regular basis.

The finless surfing became an analogy for moving out of your comfort zone, to learn you need to do new things, not rehash the old. Essentially, the rewards of risk in creativity.

All this came out as we spoke and later night I wrote a treatment of what I thought it could be, as for me it was far more than just a surfing backdrop to a concert, and that treatment is essentially Musica Surfica, the film.

Of course I had to meet Derek, and get the money to do it, but with the help of the ACO management, and Foxtel, and later the Australian Film Commission, it was pulled together.

wall of boards

It seems we are noticing an increase in the return of alaias. Is it just a coincidence that your film came out at this time, or perhaps this is what is called a ‘collective consciousness’.

At the time I thought we were breaking new ground entirely, filmically, but I think Tom Campbell has begun some work with Tommy Wegener, though we were I think first to get it to screens, and of course Tom Wegener had been filming his early efforts himself I suppose.

Was it a coincidence...? I think more it was something that was happening and Derek had the foresight to invite Tom along, who in turn told me about the Joske family and their experiments, which rounded out the Australian contingent in ancient board experimentation. Perfection I suppose would have been adding Tom Pohaku Stone to the mix and getting it from a pure Hawaiian perspective.

I think the alaia's time, as an alternative form, has come... an awakening of new possibilities and it'll be very interesting to see where talented surfers take them. Growing a surfboard is timely though... isn't it?

Would you like to see more people experiment with earlier board designs? Is this something that interests you personally as well - is there a finless board in your quiver?

I suppose it's up to them, but I think the more we free people from the need to be seen to ride the 'correct' surf craft, the better and more fun filled the experience will be. I have a finless Derek made me, it's hard to ride but definitely a conversation starter when I take it out. I just wish I could do some of the things Derek manages to do so effortlessly. That he gets five or six go outs a week to my one or two I think will guarantee I'm no threat.

Derek Hynd, deep in thought

It was lovely to watch Tom Wegener shaping wooden boards and then listen to Richard Tognetti describing what it was like to be able to play with a Carrodus (which I learned is even more rare than a Stradivarius). It must have been even more lovely to film these masters.

That was one of the great pleasures of the time on the island. To see Richard and Satu playing in such an intimate setting... they are moments to treasure and everyone there recognized how special that night was. To have an instrument of the magnitude of the Guarneri del Gesu 'Carrodus' sealed the deal.... though I think those guys could play a saw and blow your mind.

The thing I've noticed with continued exposure to music of that standard is, like everything, the more you know the more you realise you don't know and the experience gets better. You appreciate it more as you comprehend more and more of what's going on.

As for watching Tom, he's just one of the most engaging people I've ever met, so happy all the time with that big smile of his, and his enthusiasm is infectious. That he was so lucid and knowledgeable about the history of the boards, and such a craftsman, was a great asset to us as well.

One thing we noticed during the screening in San Francisco is that when the musicians spoke about the surfers, the audience was quiet, listening…in reverse, when the surfers spoke about the musicians and how blown away and appreciative they were by the music, some of the audience laughed - inappropriately was our interpretation - the surfers were not saying anything funny, just expressing pure emotion - but the audience put a sort of false stereotype against the surfers. This could be that old misunderstood perception of surfers in the US - does Australia have that same stereotype of surfers?

Yeah, I've noticed that a couple of times too. We had pure, genuine guys telling it as they saw it without the benefit of being comfortable in front of the camera. For me though it was what was said, not the delivery. That people unused to classical music can communicate the depth of the experience successfully is enough for me... I think the surfer stereotype exists everywhere, but in Australia, people like Richard at least lift the image out of the ruck... to a degree, and as surfers get older and people see it is something that for some strange reason captures some people and holds them till the day they die. We know why, they wonder why and sometimes they try and discover what we've known all along.

Was it ever hard to film when you were seeing something on the other side of the lens that was blowing you away? Perhaps the Paganini piece or Derek doing 360s on the alaia?

Fortunately the filming was done by Tony and Jon, I was directing traffic so to speak which really meant let them do their thing, and wave spot for Tony a lot as sometimes the action was going on all over the place and choices had to be made. We missed some belters along the way, naturally. As for the concerts, naaa it was easy. Once we were set up I left them to it and enjoyed the show.



On the other hand, when we were doing the interviews I was often bowled over by the answers I was given and had to be on my toes to take those balls and run with them. That way you get far more than you planned and with Richard and Derek, I had great material pouring out.

One of my favorite moments of the film was when assistant violinist Satu Vänskä, rode an alaia and she moved her hips back and forth in a playful way, to show how much fun she was having. Did she grow up surfing, do you know?

Satu was a prominent Finnish violinist before she joined the ACO. She said to me she came to Australia to join the ACO and learn to surf, which she has done over the past four or so years. She doesn't ride an alaia or finless, just this big old weird thing Derek made - she loves it and has a ball. She is as gutsy as all get out though, and will think nothing of heading out at 8ft Bells. She speaks fluent Japanese (without an accent) as well as two or three other languages apart from English. She'd be scary if she wasn't so nice.

Another favorite moment is when a young teen surfer in the lineup, whom Derek described as 'not even a very good surfer', asked if he could have a try with the alaia - and promptly figured out how to surf the thing straight away, blowing everyone away.

Yes, young Sol turned out to be the star of the show in a way, and I think Derek was a little unkind with the 'not a very good surfer' comment, though it was Derek that gave him the board afterwards.

Since the film came out, is the same group of musicians playing together (besides their regular commitment with the ACO) and has their music continued to evolve?

Danny and Mike went on to tour with the ACO on our return, and I think remain in sporadic contact with Richard, but as with anything these are gigs that come and go. Both are very successful musicians in their own right, but I do know that the cross pollination that occurs with the mixing of styles has had a great response, with the exception of the odd purist looking down their nose.

photo: Sean Davey

The location seems very special. How much did King Island impact this project?

Without the loneliness of King Island it would have been a very different beast. To have it all to ourselves with a guide like Jeremy Curtain (Wire) who knew everything there was to know about wind, tide, swell and where not to stand made the film. And it was so beautiful, plus... we were very lucky with the weather.

Mick, did you get to surf with Derek Hynd?

I've had quite a few surfs with Derek now and they are an experience. He is a very eccentric, engaging guy and a lot of fun in the water. Hooting, directing traffic, and he could pick a good wave out of a mixmaster.

Your sons are young teenagers - what did they say to you when they first saw the completed film?

'Cool, Dad'.


You have new distributorship in the US and Europe. Does this mean I will be able to find Musica Surfica at my local surf shop soon? Hint hint, Mollusk SF.

We've just shipped a few hundred copies over so yes, get onto your local surf shop and get them to give Mutiny Media a ring.

Do you have plans in the works for your next film? If so, can you give us an idea as to what it’s about?

I do, as I'd like to finish what I started before Musica came along, which was a revisiting of a very influential surfing film and it's participants, forty years later. I must admit to being a bit gun shy now though as it's no way to make a buck and I have these mouths to feed. I am working on a couple of documentary ideas that are related to surfing but not specifically about it, and am also attempting a screenplay, but that is more a what if than when. I hope I do get to do more though as it has been quite a ride and is genuinely one of the most satisfying things I've done.

I did step out of my comfort zone, waaaaay out, and it worked. Not financially, but personally, though we would like both.

Musica Surfica is so educational and as our friend Mary said, opens your mind to possibilities - inspires one to perhaps try new things. It is such a beautiful film. One does not need to be a surfer or lover of classical music to enjoy this 50-minute gem of a film.

When I started this I wanted it to appeal to non surfers. I've always wanted to work with unexpected music and play with showing what we do in a new light. Where I couldn't believe my luck was that two men of genius asked me to throw my hat into their ring, and join them. What I managed to do, with a lot of help, (please look at the credits) was to make the most of a rare opportunity.


Anything you would like to add, Mick?

I suppose I'd like to say that without Simon Whitney and Richard Keddie, who backed me up as I staggered along, and Anne Carter, my editor, who sat and listened to my ravings for weeks and gave me such an immense amount of help, and of course Tony Brennan, Jon Frank and sound man Craig Johnson to capture the sights and sounds, there'd naturally be no film. And of course having Richard and Derek and the ACO trust a first time film maker to do this... I still shake my head about that.

Oh yeah, and thanks to all my bloggy friends for following the ride. They have been a great source of inspiration, believe me.

Mick surfing Winki

update: Mick *just* found out Musica Surfica won the Adventure Award at last weekend's San Francisco Ocean Film Festival!

Prettiest song I've heard all year

Life feels a touch too busy these days. It's just a phase. Glued to the computer at work and finally escaped for a bite to eat. On the return I parked in the underground garage and got out of the car. I heard silence, followed by the sound of a leaf being dragged along the ground by the wind. That was the loudest, clearest sound I heard today. And this is the prettiest song I've heard all year.

Plywerk rocks!

I want to thank everyone who has already let me know that you will be donating your work to benefit the Mattson family. Jonathan Mattson wrote to me this weekend and let me know how grateful he is for your support!

I just got word from Plywerk and they are generously offering a 30% discount. Truly amazing - and the co-owner, Kim Nguyen, is an award-winning photographer and donating a piece as well! Thank you, Plywerk!

If you choose to have your work mounted on their beautiful, sustainably harvested wood, please email me at pineappleluv (at) gmail.com and I will give you the link and code.


I should also mention that my husband Jay has already used the product and is very happy with it. Jay has very high standards.

If you're just tuning in, details on the benefit are here... Thank you all for caring and contributing.

Musica Surfica premiers in San Francisco tonight!

Those in San Francisco can see Mick Sowry's award-winning film, Musica Surfica - premiering *tonight* at the Ocean Film Festival! It's in Program 5 at 7:00pm - located at the Cowell Theatre in the Fort Mason Center. That is where we'll be this evening!

Cowell Theater

Surf Fridays!

Hi friends! We need you! Or I should say, we need your art! The Mattson family is going through difficult times due to very serious health issues. For those of you in the San Diego area, this Sunday the Mattson Two is playing a benefit show in Encinitas, with special guest Ray Barbee. Please see the Mattson Two blog for more information.

I will be collecting artwork for a benefit art show that will benefit the family. We want to collect as much art as possible. The date for this silent auction will be announced in the near future, however we do know that it will be held at the Surfindian Gallery in Pacific Beach, one night between June 23-30. Thank you Chris and Sam!

Please send your art, photography, drawing, handmade item - by May 30th. Art can be framed or unframed. Please include the title of your piece(s), your name & contact information & a ballpark estimate of pricing. Mail to:

Jamie Watson
759 Cordilleras Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070
650-799-3716

Some tips to make things extra easy:

* Plywerk is a company which uses sustainable wood, where you can upload a print, have them laminate it on the wood/size of your choice, and they will drop ship it directly to the above address. Update: Plywerk is offering a very special 30% discount. Please email me for the link and code.

* Imagekind is a company where you can upload your image, have them print it (and frame it) and ship to the above address.


If you go with one of these options, please be sure to email me at pineappleluv (at) gmail dot com and give me your contact info & pricing. Also please email me with any questions whatsoever.

I know this is going to be a huge success, just thinking about the community we have and how this is going to come together for the Mattson family. Thank you!!!!!

p.s. Also, if you're a shaper in the San Diego area or have an extra surfboard to donate, or a cool fin, that would be a welcome item as well!



Please enjoy a tasteful B&W video of the Mattson 2, taken by Kyle Lightner.

Spiral Mollusk

Thought you might want to see a new print I made. I've always collected seashells and was thinking recently that they are kind of like jewels to me!

It's a fine, rainy day in northern California, and the Tour of California cyclists made it over the Golden Gate Bridge and are on their way to Santa Cruz. I have the day off and am getting organized at home before heading to the studio.

Stay tuned for a fun new interview next Wednesday...

Aloha.

Surf Fridays!

This Surf Fridays is next to Valentine's Day and I thought about love in simple forms. I read somewhere that there are certain languages that don't have the phrase, I love you. These cultures show it in other ways. Lift up your heart and smile so that your eyes sparkle and we will all feel it. Go forth and love this weekend! From my heart to yours...

Artful love made clear by the eyes of a talented filmmaker

Glass Love by Andrew Kidman

Pure love for the sport
Tom Blake photographed by Doc Ball

Smiling and working together as a team
Hawaii, 1959 photographed by Ralph Crane

To love and obey!
1960s ad for Hansen Surfboards, Cardiff, CA

Love for art that makes you feel happy inside
Tyler Warren

Ciro Bicudo

Luke Taaffe

Love for children
Baby Sirens photographed by Liz Cockrum

1964 Surf Guide

Having a ball with your friends
Hermosa Beach, 1948 photographed by John Florea

Love for color
Hawaii 1970s photographed by George Silk

Enjoying a sunset
North Shore, Oahu photographed by Jeff Divine

Cortez The Killer

This is a tintype portrait of me, taken by my husband a couple of years ago. I had to sit perfectly still for a few seconds, which feels longer than it sounds. This is why you'll never see any action shots in a tintype format, only portraits.

I was very proud when Jay dove in and figured out how to do this vintage form of photography. It was invented in the 1850s and the actual photograph is on a piece of metal. Nothing about it seems easy. Jay reminded me that light meters do not apply and both exposure and development are guesswork. The image is a negative that is flipped, so I see myself here as I would in a mirror. It takes about one week to prep, as the photographer needs to make the chemistry and let it age.

I think they are beautiful. This portrait somehow reminds me of my favorite Neil Young song, Cortez The Killer. You cannot rush this song, just as you cannot rush this type of photography.

He came dancing across the water
With his galleons and guns
Looking for the new world
In that palace in the sun.

On the shore lay Montezuma
With his coca leaves and pearls
In his halls he often wandered
With the secrets of the world.

And his subjects gathered 'round him
Like the leaves around a tree
In their clothes of many colors
For the angry gods to see.

And the women all were beautiful
And the men stood straight and strong
They offered life in sacrifice
So that others could go on.

Hate was just a legend
And war was never known
The people worked together
And they lifted many stones.

They carried them to the flatlands
And they died along the way
But they built up with their bare hands
What we still can't do today.

And I know she's living there
And she loves me to this day
I still can't remember when
Or how I lost my way.

He came dancing across the water
Cortez, Cortez
What a killer...

---

Jay Watson's tintypes

Joni Sternbach's tintypes

Zuma

If you're a fan, what's your favorite Neil song?

A new grommet was born!

Ed at Q-Peeps kindly made my sweet, new PineappleLuv banner a few weeks ago. As a celebration, I told him I'd put it up the moment I found out his baby was born. A shining star has entered our world. Welcome Luca Fladung Vara!

Check out little Luca here. Congratulations Ed & Marcia!

---

update: Thanks Jess! Ed's story really is an inspiration. For those who don't know...in Ed's words:

Hi, my name is Ed. I’m a graphic designer who lived in L.A. I quit my job, sold my car, rented out my house and moved to Mexico. Along the way, I learned how to surf and fell in love. This blog is my story. In these pages I write about and photograph my daily experience. I also post about things I find interesting: art, design, photography, music, tech, etc...