Friday, July 24, 2009

Surf Fridays!

photo by Doc Ball
"After the Storm" 1938


Text reads, "We had surfin' to take care of everything. Long as there's waves, why, you didn't have to pay for those." Doc Ball talking about surfing during the Great Depression.

This photograph blows me away, I love it so much. I have a subscription to Foam Magazine, and found the gem in the current Aug/Sept. issue. There are some other delights in this issue, such as an interview with Deanna Templeton and an article with Mr. Captain Fin himself, Mitch Abshere - talking about his new film, You Scratched My Anchor.

You know, before Doc Ball passed away at the age of 94 in 2001, he remained quite active. I learned that he kept to a strict diet of lots of vegetables, vitamins, faith and skateboarding. Let it sink in - the man skateboarded while he was in his 90s.

Stay young now and always! You hear? Pinky swear!

xo

5 comments:

seamouse said...

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY GUYS!

Hope you have a wonderful day.
k

x

Mariss said...

Wow! Incredibly inspiring.

Shona~ LALA dex press said...

Can't surf, but I sure as Hell can water ski + I love that crazy cuckoo surf-ski photo!

94-wow!

e. said...

There was a photo I once saw of Doc skateboarding near his home in Humboldt. He was charging a hill! I wish I could find that shot. Truly inspiring.

rebeccajane said...

Got any cuter?