The Present in San Francisco

On Saturday night Jay and I went to see the hottest new surf movie in town, The Present. When you've got a sold out crowd in a cool old theater, director Thomas Campbell, live music by the Mattson 2 and Tommy Guerrero, and a giveaway of a Tom Wegener alaia... you have the recipe for a fantastic evening.

Before we go any further, I want to mention my blog friend Seamouse, a very talented artist and surfer who lives in the UK. I had seen a comment he left about the film on 70percent, lamenting that he's 4,000 miles away so he'll have to wait for DVD. Right then and there I wanted to include him somehow. Seamouse, this evening was dedicated to you!


Stumbled into guitarist Jared Mattson before the show. He was about to go put on his suit.

Hey Jared, how's it going? The last time we saw you guys play was at the John Colins Lounge and remember that drunk lady was yelling that you guys needed to go on tour? And somebody else yelled, "They've already been to Japan!"
"Oh yeah that was funny. That lady lives across the street. She's always like that."
We're looking forward to hearing you guys play tonight.

The historic Victoria Theater seats 480. It's pretty old looking in there. No wonder, it's San Francisco's oldest operating theater.

The music sounded great with Tommy Guerrero rounding out the Mattson 2 sound. They are so tight! The whole crowd was loving it.

It's too bad Seamouse won't be able to see this film on the big screen. I think he'd really dig it.

It was a huge honor for us to stand next to Dale Webster, the only man on our planet to have surfed every single day since Sept. 3, 1975. Respect.

Hi Dale, we loved learning about you in Step Into Liquid. How many days is it now?
"12, 223."
Wow. Dale, you are an inspiration. How is your daughter doing? I remember her in the film, having her own record of perfect attendance at school.
"She is doing so well, she recently graduated from college and got married in January. It was beautiful."

To see Dale's 4 minute scene in Step Into Liquid, go here and forward to the 19:33 mark.

San Franciscan Tommy Guerrero, skater, artist, musician - a real renaissance man.

Hey Tommy, we have two of your CDs and love them.
"Oh, thanks a lot".
(Jay) You skating any of the new parks?
"Well my knee is bothering me, but yeah when it gets better I will."
Hey man, I've got no shame, I ride fully padded.
(Laughs) "I've got no shame either."

Drummer Jonathan Mattson next to shaper and surfer, Michael Junod. Michael was featured in the Africa portion of the film. He and Al Knost traveled old school style, wearing suits.

Michael, you look great in a suit!
(Laughing) "Thank you! I think I've only worn it one other time."
We loved watching you ride in the film. What was that green board you were riding?
"That was a 7' single fin, one of my favorite boards."

Hey Jonathan, did you guys have a great time in Brazil?
"Oh yeah, and I had the best night's sleep at Jair's place. I don't know what it was, but it was just one of the best night's sleep I've ever had."
Jair is so great. We've got his art for the auction, and Seamouse is an artist in the UK and just sent his work as well. You're gonna love all the pieces coming in.
"Oh wow, really? That's great. We'll make the auction happen right before we leave for Japan."

Mr. Thomas Campbell, the man of the hour. What a nice guy and one heckuva talented person.

Hi Thomas, we took that class from you at RVCA.
"Oh yeah, I remember you guys."
We loved this, this and this about your film. It soothed my soul when we could just hear the sound of the waves. Would you mind if we took a photo for our friend Seamouse in the UK? Have you seen his artwork - he is really good. Yeah, well he wishes he could see The Present on tour.
"Well he can! We are going to the UK in two weeks."
No way!
"Yeah! Have him check the website for the locations."

And there you have it. Seamouse, you *will* be able to see The Present on the big screen.

Early evening in Pacifica

Surf Fridays!

NorCal peeps - exciting things happening this weekend!

Finding Aloha - Tonight in Pacifica!
Q&A with Dan Moore
Two showings: 6:30pm and 8:30pm
Sanchez Concert Hall
Snacks and beer available!
Your $ benefits the Pacifica Beach Coalition
Trailer here

If you attend the first screening, you have time to head over to Mollusk to see Yar, an art show relating to Thomas Campbell's film The Present, featuring musical guest Tommy Guerrero!

The Present - Saturday night in San Francisco
Thomas Campbell will be there to introduce his film
Two showings: 7:00pm and 9:00pm
Victoria Theater
Live music by the Mattson 2 with Tommy Guerrero
Trailer here


I saw a comment on 70percent that Seamouse wishes he could go see The Present on tour, but alas he is 4,000 miles away. Well Seamouse, I am going to do a little surprise for you. Stay tuned...

Have a great weekend everyone! Stay healthy and strong.

Talk about a dream come true...

Happy Birthday, Dreamboat!

My Vision Board

In the beginning of the year, I mentioned that I wanted to share my dreams from time to time. I made a vision board over the weekend, having been guided in a 2 hour class with my friend Jess. I thought you might want to see it and hear about the process.

Making my vision board was more fun than I even imagined it to be. Not only was it satisfying to rip the pages out of magazines, it was a great opportunity to focus and clarify what I would like in my future.

You will need: your favorite magazines, scissors, a glue stick and a piece of foam core (a journal or notebook could be a nice alternative).

You begin by gluing a photo of yourself in the center. It is a photo where you were feeling very happy in that moment, so whenever you look at this photo you will feel happy. Then, you rip out photos based on the different sections of your board.


- Directly above the center is where you will have photos that represent your spirituality.
- The upper right corner represents your relationship with a partner.
- The upper left corner represents YOU. How do you see yourself in this life?
- The lower left corner is how you see yourself in community.
- The lower right hand corner is the vision of your living space, your home.
- And finally, directly below the center is a place that is open to divine mystery - life's beautiful mysteries that you are generously allowing in without having any idea of what they will be.


Something important to keep in mind - use photos that make you feel joyful inside. Sometimes we get an idea in our head of what we should be, or it may be an old idea we've had of ourselves. When you hold a photo like that, you will know if it represents something more heady, or if you are getting a good feeling from your heart. Go with the heart.

After you are finished, you can wrap tape around the edges of the board as a way of finishing and sealing in your dreams. You will place your board in a room where you'll glance at it often, but it's not right in your face. Hey, good job! Your future is looking bright!

Oh - and I promise to tell you when things start coming true. Shine on and dream on. xo

Coolest thing on the Interwebs today

Via Wooster Collective

Surf Fridays!

Veteran surf journalist Nick Carroll along with writers Paul Clarke and Greg Appel, have a new surf documentary for us. Narrated by Jack Thompson, Bombora charts the history of surfing in Australia - the bodies, the boards, the music, the drugs, the fights, the freedom - and shows the cultural phenomenon it is today. Premiering on Australian TV on March 26th, it will be available on DVD on April 2nd.

Bombora follows the wild ride as Australia's love affair with the surf flourished, and features rare archival footage and plenty of surfing icons and bad boys, such as Midget Farrelly, Bob Pike, Nat Young and Michael Petersen. It looks at the innovators like Wayne Lynch and Bob McTavish and the new breed of Australian surfers riding 40ft monster waves off the West Australian coast. It's the story of people living wild lives, craving freedom.

Surfing has pushed the boundaries of Australia's way of life and rules of behavior - becoming a multi billion dollar industry that would one day outsell the high fashion houses of Europe.

Isabel Letham, early 1900s. Isabel surfed with Duke Kahanamoku, who kick-started surfing's popularity at this time in Australia.

Nat Young and girls
photo by John Witzig

photo by John Witzig

Bob McTavish at Noosa
photo by John Witzig

Memories of Waikiki

An invitation to paradise. May 2006.

I was invited by my dear friend Jenni Adair, to stay with her in her hotel while she had business in Honolulu. I decided to head over two days early and got a room in the cheapest place I could find, with the best reviews. I am a brave traveler.

Arriving at night, a welcoming sight if I ever saw one.

The view from my balcony. Later that evening, the hotel owner came out to play the ukulele while guests are invited to sing along. It was a happy sound! I couldn't wait to wake up the next day.

Here she is, the front of the Royal Grove Hotel in the heart of Waikiki. Known for the friendly owners and just a block and a half walk to the beach. Can't beat that for $62! It's pretty much the opposite of The Four Seasons, but it was perfect for me those two nights.

Waikiki Beach. I noticed that the locals came to swim here every morning, along with the tourists. Eating at the parks and swimming seemed to be a part of the locals' daily life.

Oh, Duke Kahanamoku. How I admire you. A fun little secret is that you can stand in front of his statue and ring up your friend back at home - tell them to go to this site so they can see you throwing shakas at them! I did that to Jay and my Mom and they saw me. Jay told me that it made him happy.

Canoes surf break. Mellow waves and not that crowded! I rented a board and had so much fun. I mentioned last Friday that I had my longest and best ride ever on this day. It was pretty magical.

A little shower after your surf sesh, good vibes from the locals.

After a simple lunch of sushi, it was time for some shave ice. I had one every day when I was there. That was my rule.

I walked along and heard the most beautiful sounds. My ears led me to a park in front of the Hyatt Regency, where the Royal Hawaiian Band was playing a free concert at lunchtime. Hearing the sounds of this band while alternating my gaze on the hula dancer and the surfers = heaven on earth.

Isn't she beautiful? Her graceful gestures and sways while always smiling, brought tears to my eyes.

Next was the famous International Marketplace, where you can get trinkets for the folks at home.

The Moana Surfrider is a beautiful, old grand hotel. I stayed here in my 20s and had to go back to see how "the first lady of Waikiki" was doing. Their Banyan Court has one of the most majestic banyan trees on the island and wonderful entertainment in the evenings. I found on this trip, that I could sit by their pool to read a book and no one seemed to mind!

Later at the Moana it was a fine time for a Blue Hawaiian, with a perfect view of Diamond Head. Which by the way, is amazing to see from a surfboard.

When Jenni arrived, we checked into our new digs near the Honolulu Harbor and this was the beautiful view from the balcony. It was wonderful to be with one of my best girlfriends in this paradise. To tell you the truth, I kind of missed the little pink hotel.

The next morning I awoke to discover some peelers with just a few locals surfing at the harbor.

On my last day, I walked to the beach and took all of it in one last time. I smiled and thanked this beautiful place for making me feel at home. The Aloha spirit you've heard of truly presents itself to you as soon as you land on the ground. They hope that you take it home with you.

Now Showing...

I may have mentioned that some of my work is now showing at Corduroy - a killer surf boutique & art gallery in beautiful Portland, Maine.

Artist Jenny "McCool" Dougherty thoughtfully sent over these snaps. She has a solo show at Corduroy right now. I love her work. She is one of the members of The Pine Haven Collective. Jay and I are stoked that on St. Paddy's Day, we will get to meet Mister Joseph Conway, another member of The Pine Haven Collective. Jenny, we will take good care of him!

Surf Fridays!

Sign, 1969

Travel brochure, ca. 1916

Magazine advertisement, 1939

Postcard, 1962

Travel brochure, ca. 1924

Book cover, 1915

Children's book illustration, 1936

I am daydreaming about surfing Waikiki Beach. I went there in May of 2006 and had the best, longest surf ride ever. I was smiling to myself, passing other people in the water, smiling at them. I will never forget that moment and feeling.

I must have been radiating good vibes and the aloha spirit! It makes me understand why it's so important to do what we love because that's when we pass on the stoke so naturally. That's when we share the aloha feeling to others, without even trying. And that's when love makes the world go around.

There's a new surf movie called Finding Aloha.

Finding Aloha marks a cinematic convergence of body and mind. It contains dynamic action footage, some of the most stunning ever to appear on film, but it is also a testament to the human spirit. Armed with both qualities - physical prowess and a gentle heart - these adventurous athletes find the key to harmony in the Hawaiian islands. They discover, and nurture, aloha.

As the film depicts, aloha can be a simple barbecue on a Hawaiian beach, graced by laughter, generosity and a visitor's respect. It comes easily to anyone who spends a lifetime sharing, giving and raising a family. It forever evades the rude, the insensitive and the arrogant. Countless water-sports athletes, particularly surfers, have gone to Hawaii with a warrior's mentality. Knowing the best spots are crowded and fiercely protected, they try to barge in, impose their will, take what is not rightfully theirs. They will find no aloha.

Aloha has its roots in patience and understanding, a feeling that there's always another wave, that it might be more worthwhile to make a few friends along the way.

Check out the rest of the story summary chronicling big wave surfer Dan Moore, Layne Beachley, Mark Anderson, Jimmy Hall, Laird Hamilton and Tahitian surfer Vetea "Poto" David.

It premiers in Pacifica, CA on March 27th, with Dan Moore attending for Q&A. For those in the SF Bay Area, check out the Pacifica Beach Coalition for details. See you there!

Much Aloha to you.

Surfer's Breakfast

One recent weekend morning in Half Moon Bay, we stopped at a breakfast place on Main St. and for $3.99 I got the "Surfer's Breakfast". It consisted of a plate of rice with green onions, scrambled eggs and chopped bacon. It was good, but Jay and I thought we could finesse it at home. We've since made it about 5 times and it's a winner because it's yummy, cheap, fast and great for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Takes you back to the islands! Da kine grinds!

serves 4-6

2 cups white or brown rice (each works very well and brown is better for you)
1 bunch green onions
2 eggs
6 slices bacon
1/2 c. shredded parmesan cheese
sea salt & ground pepper

Cook your rice. (We got this Zojirushi rice cooker as a gift and love it). While the rice is cooking, slice your green onions and set aside. Then, make your bacon and chop it once it's cooled. When your rice is almost done, scramble your eggs.

Take a big bowl and pour in your rice. Sprinkle that 1/2 cup of parmesan cheese into it, along with your sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir. Now add your scrambled eggs, bacon and green onions. Stir and serve with a little green onion on top. Enjoy!