Surf Fridays!

Greetings from a lovely land. Waikiki in 1932.

A family member gave me this postcard that belonged to their great grandparents. There is not one day that goes by that I don't think of the Hawaiian islands. I imagine we'll take the baby there next summer. Until then...

Have a wonderful weekend, filled with Aloha.

Oahu: Part Three

Oahu: Part Two

Oahu: Part One

Surf Fridays!

Sign, 1969

Travel brochure, ca. 1916

Magazine advertisement, 1939

Postcard, 1962

Travel brochure, ca. 1924

Book cover, 1915

Children's book illustration, 1936

I am daydreaming about surfing Waikiki Beach. I went there in May of 2006 and had the best, longest surf ride ever. I was smiling to myself, passing other people in the water, smiling at them. I will never forget that moment and feeling.

I must have been radiating good vibes and the aloha spirit! It makes me understand why it's so important to do what we love because that's when we pass on the stoke so naturally. That's when we share the aloha feeling to others, without even trying. And that's when love makes the world go around.

There's a new surf movie called Finding Aloha.

Finding Aloha marks a cinematic convergence of body and mind. It contains dynamic action footage, some of the most stunning ever to appear on film, but it is also a testament to the human spirit. Armed with both qualities - physical prowess and a gentle heart - these adventurous athletes find the key to harmony in the Hawaiian islands. They discover, and nurture, aloha.

As the film depicts, aloha can be a simple barbecue on a Hawaiian beach, graced by laughter, generosity and a visitor's respect. It comes easily to anyone who spends a lifetime sharing, giving and raising a family. It forever evades the rude, the insensitive and the arrogant. Countless water-sports athletes, particularly surfers, have gone to Hawaii with a warrior's mentality. Knowing the best spots are crowded and fiercely protected, they try to barge in, impose their will, take what is not rightfully theirs. They will find no aloha.

Aloha has its roots in patience and understanding, a feeling that there's always another wave, that it might be more worthwhile to make a few friends along the way.

Check out the rest of the story summary chronicling big wave surfer Dan Moore, Layne Beachley, Mark Anderson, Jimmy Hall, Laird Hamilton and Tahitian surfer Vetea "Poto" David.

It premiers in Pacifica, CA on March 27th, with Dan Moore attending for Q&A. For those in the SF Bay Area, check out the Pacifica Beach Coalition for details. See you there!

Much Aloha to you.