Dear Diary: Part Four

January 25

Dear Diary,

in the night, I was counting my money in my piggybank. I had $4.98.

I told my mother and she gave me two pennies to make it! $5.00!

Surf Fridays!

Hey bro. 'Sup.

Singlefin Yellow

Yes, just put your wetsuit on already

Traffic Jam

Oh, snap

Longboard Parade

Way to go Mom and son

Santa Cruz Boardwalk

So much fun when Cowells is breaking

There are lots of waves for you

The sun is setting but there are still waves to catch

Happy Feet

Surf Fridays!

The Mavericks contest is ON. Saturday, February 13. This is something that I get really excited about and this video just pumps up that excitement for me. Of course that was a 15 foot day and contest day will be 30-40 feet, up to 50 foot faces.

This was the first year they had the contestants vote on whether the contest got the greenlight or not. 17 out of 24 voted yes this week. The swell is coming from a different direction than normal, so it could be more dangerous than usual out there. This article explains a little more about what the conditions should be like. And here is the heat selection.

Another super exciting thing is that Jay might get to be on a boat tomorrow shooting the contest. Of course the demand (number of photogs) outweighs the supply (space on boats) so we are crossing our fingers right now. I'll let you know what happens!

UPDATE: 7:35am Saturday morn - Jay is on the boat!

I go to yoga a couple of nights a week and there's a guy named Drew who's in my class - last night he told me that he's a tow-in driver at Mavs. He practiced with some of the guys who flew in earlier this week. He told me that Jack O'Neill's grandson is a big wave surfer and flew in from Kauai. Drew is going to be a back-up driver tomorrow and also do rescue if needed. I asked him if yoga helps him feel stronger for driving the jet ski and he thought for a moment and then said, "Nah, you've just got to hang on"!

Have a fantastic weekend, everyone. You can watch the contest tomorrow here, it starts at 8:05am Pacific.

Surf Fridays!

The first half of this captivating silent film is footage of surfriders in the 1920s, with Diamond Head in the background. The second half shows Hawaiian natives going about their everyday activities.